Showing posts with label Painting. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Painting. Show all posts

Friday, October 12, 2012

What's new with me

Okay, so kind of an ego-centric title, but I suppose you have to be a bit so inclined to have a blog in the first place.  :-)


Things have been rather quiet here for some time with far fewer postings than normal.  Happily, it is just because life has been very full and rich so no health issues for a change.  On the downside, if life is too rich you risk gout. 

In August and early September I enjoyed six weekends in a row of historic reenacting.  On the downside again, no two weekends were in the same gear as I did: War of 1812 95th Rifles, Royal Navy, French Napoleonic, Rev War British, French and Indian War French, and War of 1812 British/Napoleonic French.  The last event was a dual War of 1812 and Napoleonic gathering so I donned uniform as appropriate to the planned skirmish.  While I regret none of the events, the pace was gruelling and led to a nasty head cold for me and bronchitis for my wife.
Can you find me?  Hint: I'm a redcoat.

Gaming wise I slipped in two games but neglected to take my camera to either.  My cell phone takes such dubious ones that it didn't seem worth doing. 

The first game was a semi modern game (1989) featuring the Soviet invasion of Germany.  I'm not sure of the rules, they were a modified sci fi system I believe.  The basic element was a platoon, so my battalion of T-80s was 10 micro scale models.  The game featured an initiative roll to start, then an IGO-UGO to complete the turn.  As the Soviets had more units, they tended to get some "end of turn" moves.  All a d6 game, where most vehicles got a saving throw against the hits (Abrams needed only a "2+" roll) and infantry evaporated fairly fast.  It tended to hit most of my pre-conceived notions of modern combat, which ordinarily doesn't appeal to me, and gave a very reasonable result.  In the end the Soviet tank regiment had two of the three battalions combat ineffective (routed or burning), were going to occupy the objective, and the Americans had sold their lives dearly.  3:1 odds seemed about right.  My main quibble was with the mechanics that gave it a chess-like feel.  If you fired on a unit (not stand) it took a "blast" marker.  Artillery bombardments could give multiple blast markers.  Destroyed elements gave you blast markers.  When your blast markers matched the number of functional stands, you routed.  No rolls, just automatic.  In the case of the Americans, it had to be double the number to reflect their desperation.  Calling in a fire mission didn't happen immediately, so you tended to target the unit that had already had it's action so that they couldn't just move out of the bombardment.  You had recon units giving away their position by firing with some 14.5mm machine gun against the Abrams to give them that last blast marker.  Now admittedly, as far as the Abrams know the tracers are just to aid targeting some big nasty, but the automatics encouraged players to make decisions they might not in real life.  I'd play it again, though as I say post-1945 stuff is not my thing.


The second game I squeezed in was Napoleonic naval; I think Form Line of Battle.  The combat system was easy if too brutal for my tastes when you got real close.  We had one situation where a ship of the line took one raking shot and struck.  The odds were remote, but did it ever happen on first damage?  A deck of cards drove the action.  The first card for your side was a command and control type.  Reload, new orders, etc.  Then you had two move cards available for your side.  So it was possible that one side could get their command phase and both movement phases before the other side could do anything.  You could only fire each broadside once per turn, but it still created weird effects.  I'm usually favorable towards card driven games because of the "dramatic tension" it creates, but this felt decidedly wrong.  The laws of physics still apply (or should) and two castles of oak sailing on a converging course simply can't stop and have someone sail past, then you magically regain momentum and carry one.  Even an IGO-UGO system would be more palatable, though of course a game of simul movement with courses plotted is best.  My bias of course, but founded in 40 years of gaming.  The game itself tested the game system as the British strove to break the French/Spanish/Dutch line, enduring raking fire as they did so, but having the cards line up perfectly at the critical time.  No "Band of Brothers" this, more a "bunch of squabbling cousins" as half the British ships took the loooooong way around to engage, but as they came into battle fresh the surviving coalition ships could only make sail and flee.  As an amusing side note, although the rules as played did not allow you to aim high or low, inevitably criticals against the British brought down masts, and criticals against the allies took our hull, guns and crew.  One reason the losers could escape with as many as they did.

Painting has been hit or miss.  After a very busy first half of the year it has not surprisingly taken the back seat of late.  I've done some easy things like WWII armor and infantry, some harder things like 15mm Republican French (1796ish), and some bothersome things like 28mm Foundry Russian SYW cavalry.  After the last big battle I've reluctantly agreed that I need more armored cavalry.  So at least three more squadrons will be ready for the December game.

Lots of other game ideas rattling around in my head and finally some time to act on them.  But I will be going to Rock Con later this month so that takes away a weekend from the locals.  I hope to sample some new game systems along with old favorites.

Thanks for reading along, if indeed you didn't just skip to the end or quit part way through.  And may the odds be ever in your favor.
 

Thursday, September 6, 2012

Figure Bonanza

Our gaming group managed a huge haul off of eBay recently for AWI and F&I figures.  Unfortunately they aren't mainstream figures apparently because we are drawing a blank.  They run from tiny 25s (Musket Miniatures) to husky, robust types.  Some sample pictures are:






I think we can rule out Foundry, Front Rank and Redoubt for the first three pics.  They have tags like W66 on the bases.  The fourth picture of much smaller figures are AIF type tags, and the last picture has figures with no help at all but are more traditionally sized.

I've posted on The Miniatures Page as well, so hopefully we can get some direction to guide us in sorting out the stash.  We got some 2500 figures for our group.  Thanks!





 

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Paper Boats

I have often in the past sung the praises of the Dave Graffam paper building models.  blog post  Now, in an effort to increase my water-borne options I assembled his Patrol Boat.  As with most of the PDF products, you have a choice of "layers" to vary things up.  I've scratch-built several small craft and longboats before blog entry but this promised to be easier.  So, below you can see my efforts, mixed in with some 25/28mm figures by assorted manufacturers.  By scaling the printing you can make them much smaller.  I used foam core board for the deck, but just common cardboard like you would find on the back of a pad of paper for the rest.  It came with a square mast that you could form but I preferred the dowel and base so it would be removed as needed.  The crate pictured below is one of three that come with the PDF.

Comments or suggestions welcomed, click the pictures to enlarge please.

Approaching shore where smugglers await

More emerge from below-decks

A scratch-built longboat on the right

I like the details and dingy sail
Keep an eye on your purse here






Thursday, June 7, 2012

Tabletop Props

Props!  I love props! 
I've often been heard to say that as I bring out my latest battlefield attraction made from whatever gubbins (with a tip 'o the cap to Charles Grant) were available.  Of late I've gotten lazier.  Long gone are the days when I made a geomorphic village of ruins from 24 1' tiles with almost everything homemade.  Now I've discovered the joys of paper props, courtesy of Dave Graffam.  If you've followed the blog for a long time you may remember my first attempt with his buildings, all in 30mm.  A Fresh Look  This time a combination of inexpensive downloads and freebies armed me with 15mm ruined buildings.  Click the pictures to enlarge the image.
The beauty of these downloads is that you get single layered and multi layered designs.  So a vast array of possibilities are available to you.  Instructions that are provided also tell you how to adjust the printing size.  In my case for these, in the PDF print dialog box I clicked on Properties and reduced them to 50%.  I should say now that these are available direct at www.davesgames.net and through www.wargamevault.com
I printed these off with a high quality laser printer so got real nice copies that won't smear.  Using a spray on adhesive to avoid bubbles I stuck them to mid weight cardboard like you'd find backing a tablet of paper.  Granted, I can't run them through the printer, but it's nice and sturdy.  If you need to use an inkjet printer I suggest giving the printing a spray with a matt finish to protect it from moisture and oily fingers.  (We all have them.)
The pieces that are just wall ruins have the added benefit of fitting together with slots, so they can be stored flat when not in use.  Of course they will show wear faster, but I can just print more.
They also mix well with other materials and often provide extra bits like posters to add to the structures.  If you have a box of "stuff" around you can enhance them even more.  I've found that kitty litter makes good rubble for example.
This one I knocked out with extra cut shapes and a little of this and that.  Not going to win any prizes, but is an inexpensive and light weight option.

Now on to the revenue cutter!



Tuesday, March 6, 2012

New stuff!

For a change of pace I thought I'd show off some newly painted toys.  There is a big North Africa game pending where the Italians, all by themselves, are one victory away from Alexandria!  Il Duce shouldn't book his plane tickets yet though, as the Australians have arrived.

Anyway, here is a trio of Battlefront M13/40 tanks.  I was pleased with the finished product and especially the ease with which they painted up.  Click to enlarge the pictures.



First I primed them in Rust-Oleum American Accents "Soft Wheat."  Then I painted the treads, always a tough call for me what coloration to use, and then I applied the (in)famous dip.  A mix of Future Floor Wax and Duncan Decorator Acrylics paints "Espresso."  I don't concern myself with a mix ratio, I just go until I get the consistency and color I want.  Liberally applied with a cheap and disposable brush, about the only thing I did was to brush over collection points repeatedly as it dried so as not to get big brown blotches.  Decals were applied to the turrets before dipping.  Durable and rugged looking.  I don't dip a lot of my stuff, but WWII items seem to lend themselves to it.

Next up some SYW Austrian guns and gunners.  The gunners are 15mm Essex and the guns, IIRC are Battle Honours.  The guns are actually Napoleonic era but since I don't have Austrian Napoleonics anymore, they volunteered for duty.  These were primed black and have the paint layered on.  I don't strive for museum pieces, just ones that look good are arms reach.  These will supplement my modest (for the time being) collection of Austro-Hungarian infantry and cavalry.



Last up some WWII era ships.  The ships themselves are fairly unremarkable.  Panzerschiffe models painted according to what information I could find, but the bases are a new touch for me.  After gluing the model to the base I took a glob of SidingPro Acrylic Sealant (comes in colors) and with a toothpick applied the crests and waves.  Just get some on the toothpick and dab the length of the toothpick onto the base, rather than the tip.  The dabbing effect tends to leave a raised edge or crest to each wave.  I think paint them a blue appropriate to the theatre (I treat Mediterranean differently than North Sea) and then dry-brush highlights with Delta Ceramcoat Light Ivory.  I've been pleased with the effect, hopefully you will be too.
Fubuki class destroyers.

Japanese light cruiser.

WWI Austro-Hungarian dreadnought.


Good night and good painting.